Friday, May 31, 2013

Great Plant Picks

I have worked for the Oregon Association of Nurseries for almost 10 years now, but it’s really only in the last few years that I’ve come to realize the terrific plant resource Great Plant Picks (GPP) is to a gardener in the Pacific Northwest. Introduced to the gardening public in 2001, GPP is well on its way to developing a comprehensive list of hardy, reliable plants for home gardeners and industry professionals specifically focused on the maritime Pacific Northwest. GPP is one of the primary educational programs of the Elisabeth Carey Miller Botanical Garden in Seattle, Wash.
Royal Grivillea
I had the privilege and pleasure of attending the March 2013 GPP plant selection meeting where a brain trust of experienced nursery men and women, landscape designers, curators of esteemed botanical gardens and arboreta and passionate estate gardeners assembled to debate the characteristics and performance of plants being considered for selection. The horticulturalists broke into three subcommittees—shrubs and vines, trees and conifers, and perennials and bulbs—and engaged in rigorous and lively discussions. Selections are made by a majority vote. Believe me, you can select a GPP plant with confidence.

To even be considered, a plant must meet the following criteria:
  1. Be hardy in USDA zones 7 and 8;
  2. Be long-lived;
  3. Be vigorous and easy to grow by a gardener of average means and experience;
  4. Be reasonably disease and pest resistant;
  5. Have long season of interest and preferably multiple seasons of interest
  6. Be available from at least two retail plant sources;
  7. Be adaptable to a variety of soil and fertility conditions;
  8. Not require excessive moisture (with the exception of aquatic plants); and
  9. Not be invasive or overly vigorous in colonizing the garden or larger environment.
Additionally, perennials should be of good constitution and low maintenance; plants requiring staking, vigorous deadheading, etc. will not be considered. Trees and shrubs should require little pruning and nominal training to achieve their best form (excluding plans used for hedges). Bulbs should last at least two years. And finally, variegated plants should be stable and not excessively prone to reversion.

Can you think of 10 plants that meet all these criteria and perform as well in British Columbia as they do in Medford, Ore.? I can’t. Yet if you look at the Great Plant Picks website, you’ll find 850 beautiful plants and their outstanding qualities and culture to choose from, as well as images for each selection. Whew! As I was reworking much of my garden this spring, I regularly searched on the GPP website for plants for a particular site.

A special “thank you” to Rick Peterson, Great Plant Picks Manager, and Richie Steffen, Curator, for inviting me for a peek at the GPP process and allowing me to wander the Elisabeth Carey Miller Botanical Garden, a rare treat.

Have you used GPP as a plant selection resource?



Thursday, May 30, 2013

Value of Trees

Using baseline information developed for urban foresters to estimate the value of urban tree canopies, Casey Trees and Davey Tree Expert Co. developed a tool to measure the benefit of trees that might be of interest to the home gardener: the Tree Benefit Calculator.

According to the www.treebenefits.com website, “The Tree Benefit Calculator allows anyone to make a simple estimation of the benefits individual street-side trees provide. This tool is based on i-Tree’s street tree assessment tool called STREETS. With inputs of location, species and tree size, users will get an understanding of the environmental and economic value trees provide on an annual basis.

The Tree Benefit Calculator is intended to be simple and accessible. As such, this tool should be considered a starting point for understanding trees’ value in the community, rather than a scientific accounting of precise values. For more detailed information on urban and community forest assessments, visit the i-Tree website.” The calculator estimates the overall annual benefit of a tree, but also breaks it down more specifically into storm water, property value, energy, air quality, and CO2.

I used the tool to see how it would value a large (36-inch diameter) silver maple and Japanese maple with an eight-inch diameter trunk in my front yard and a 48-inch giant sequoia growing in my back yard. Here’s a side-by-side comparison:
Silver MapleGiant SequoiaJapanese Maple
Storm Water (gallons per year)3,9936,023507
Property Value$60$0$88
Energy (kilowatt hours conserved)152 kWh136 kWh22 kWh
CO2 (atmospheric carbon reduction)974 lbs172 lbs183 lbs
Overall$195$185$106

Calculate the annual value of the trees in your garden. The results just might provide a pleasant surprise!

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

A Garden Favorite





 Photo credit: Janet Loughrey

On May 25, my garden was open for the first time to the public. In preparation for the garden tour, a fundraiser for the Rogerson Clematis Collection in Lake Oswego, I redesigned a good portion of my garden in the three months leading up to the tour. Not something I recommend for the faint of heart or for those with bad backs if you’re doing a lot of the work yourself. Feedback from visitors was positive and affirming—they liked the garden as much as I did! One of the most asked about parts of the garden was the area with the raised beds tucked into a part sun corner of my yard.

The area is comprised of a graveled area with three raised round beds backed by a painted plywood panel and surrounded by planted beds (the bed on the left is a mixed bed with lots of edibles and a few ornamentals).

The raised beds are 4-foot diameter galvanized stock tanks I purchased at Wilco, a farm and feed store with multiple locations in Oregon. I sprayed them with a gray primer suitable for adhering to galvanized metal and then with two coats of a hammered copper colored spray paint (they probably could use a third coat). After punching holes in the bottom of each tank for drainage and leveling them adequately, I filled them with Scottish Blend soil from MacFarlane’s Bark. It took just shy of a yard of soil for each. 

Originally, I wanted a round bed with a keyhole entry to maximize the planting space. John Stone, owner of JP Stone Contractors, and I considered several alternatives including 18-inch steel edging and stacked rock, but this was the least expensive solution, gave me the most planting space, was easiest on the back to garden in,  and actually does a better job of keeping my adorable golden retriever out of the strawberries, peas, carrots, chard, lettuce, arugula and cilantro I have planted.

Also of interest to visitors was the bright painted panel behind the raised beds. Kristine Hanson, a landscape designer now with Prograss, made the panel for a Yard, Garden & Patio Show Showcase Garden several years ago. She cut a design in plywood and gave it a good coat of bright yellowish-green paint. I put a new coat of paint on it and Garden Gallery Ironworks made a black metal stand to keep it off the ground. It provides a wonderful focal point and hides a mound of straw, which I use mixed with soil in my potato cages, and a stack of tomato cages yet to be used this season.

Voila!

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs



Oregon has a new pest in town: the brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB). Stink bugs aren’t new to the Northwest, but BMSB (Halyomorpha halys) was first identified in Oregon in 2004 and its territory is now growing (see the results of an OSU 2012 survey here). Native to Korea and Taiwan, it first arrived in the US in the mid-Atlantic states in the late 1990s and is now causing damage to fruit and vegetable crops in several states. Considered an agricultural pest, Oregon’s breadth of commercial crops makes BMSB a pest that could cause substantial economic harm to the state, though none has been reported to date. 

 Photo: Oregon State University

BMSBs (on the right in the above photo) can easily be mistaken for our native stink bugs (on the left). Key identifying characteristics of the BMSB include the two light bands on the dark antennae (the most reliable identifier), smooth “shoulders” and abdominal margins with a distinct banding pattern. “Marmorated” refers to the color pattern of the insect, which vaguely resembles marble. Oregon State University’s website describes the life cycle of BMSB.

Home gardeners can play a role in helping the state manage the spread of this foreign pest. If you see a BMSB, please consider reporting it to OSU so they can track populations. OSU also needs help capturing live specimens. Put the bugs in a ventilated container such as a jar with a hole punched in the lid. Keep the container cool and away from direct sun and the bugs will stay healthy for a few days. Please review the identification guide before reporting. If you can email clear photos, the confirmation can be done electronically. Please make the following observations in your report email if applicable:

1. Time and date of sighting.
2. Habitat (agricultural, urban, natural).
3. Host plant (ornamental, weedy, crop).
4. Approximate number of BMSB.
5. Your contact information.
6. Send reports or identification questions to: BMSB@oregonstate.edu

 Photo: Oregon State University

For your own garden, pheromone traps can catch some of the bugs. Hand-picking them is also an option as is using crop covers to protect your fruits and vegetables. See garden expert Claudia Groth talk about the pest here on GardenTime.tv.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Practical Food Gardening & Recipe Guide



Food gardening is harder than ornamental gardening, in my opinion. There is little leeway as to when to plant something for a successful harvest. And then you have to be ready to use or prepare for storage the fruits and vegetables at the exact moment they are ready to harvest. Each year I get better at it, but there’s a lot more for me to learn.

To help me along the learning curve is a recently published book by authors Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman called The Four Season FarmGardener’s Cookbook: From the Garden to the Table in 120 Recipes (Workman Publishing). Like collecting plants, I find books irresistible. Admittedly, I haven’t read every gardening-related book on my bookshelves, but that doesn’t stop me from acquiring more. This book was given to me to review and I’m pleased with the practical content, the photos and the tone of the book, which is helpful for the blossoming “farmer” I hope to become.

Starting with how to create good soil, the authors help the reader nourish the Earth and subsequently the themselves. There’s advice on what crops to grow (Note: in the maritime Northwest, The Maritime Northwest Garden Guide by Seattle Tilth is indispensible for choosing appropriate crops); how to layout the garden to maximize crop production, whether you have space for a small or larger garden; and how to care for your crops. Then—and this is the really fun part—there are recipes for using your freshly picked crops! 

With the cooler than normal weather we’re having at the moment, the Fish Soup with Tomatoes and Fennel sounds so fantastic I am going to give it a try this weekend (even though I didn’t plant any fennel and it’s way too early to have home-grown tomatoes).

To learn more, co-author Barbara Damrosch will be speaking at Powell’s Books at the Cedar Hills Crossing store (3415 SW Cedar Hills Blvd., Beaverton) on Thursday, May 30 at 7 p.m.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Drawing News: One down, one to go

Congratulations to J. F. of Battle Ground, Wash. She won the two tickets for the 2013 Inviting Vines Garden Tour. You can get your tickets to the May 25 Inviting Vines tour at www.RogersonClematisCollection.org or at Dennis’ Seven Dees Nursery (Lake Oswego), Garden Fever Nursery (NE Portland), Portland Nursery (SE Stark St), Gardener’s Choice (Tigard), Joy Creek Nursery (Scappoose) and 13th St Nursery (Salem).

But wait! We have another drawing exclusive to Random Acts of Gardening readers.

Each of five lucky winners will receive FREE one Ultimate Plant Cage and two 50 packs of Ultimate Plant Clips. These are made in the USA of eco-friendly materials and they will help your staked and vining plants grow well. Global Garden Friends is introducing the products and they want to share them with you. Even if you don’t win the drawing, Global Garden Friends is offering Random Acts of Gardening readers an exclusive 25% off when you place an order at www.globalgardenfriends.com/store. Use this code at checkout to receive the 25% discount on all online products: randomacts.

Benefits of the Ultimate Plant Cage and Clips:
  • Opens plants up for optimum light penetration, allowing light to penetrate all the way from the fruit to the root
  • Increases plant yields
  • Plants grow UP and organized versus floppy and chaotic
  • Biodegradable, eco-friendly product (made in the USA of 100% certified biodegradable plastic)
  • The flexible plastic clip fits comfortably over the tips of your index finger and thumb for one-handed staking, keeping the plant secure without choking its stems
Register for the drawing here. Drawing will take place May 22. As always, odds of winning are dependent upon number of entries received.

Friday, May 3, 2013

Please Eat the Flowers


Reprinted from Renee’s Garden April E-newsletter 

 

Flowers are a universal symbol of beauty. We offer them as gifts on special occasions or simply to show appreciation, but flowers can also play a delicious role in the kitchen in both savory and sweet recipes.

While we are used to eating the unopened buds of flowers like artichokes, the blossoms of many pretty and popular plants are also edible and good tasting. Well-known edible flowers include nasturtiums, roses and squash, but the flowers of most kitchen herbs like arugula, cilantro, thyme, dill, basil, sage and lavender add flavor and eye appeal to many dishes.  

[Editor’s note: Since I was a child, I’ve admired glistening sugared flowers delicately resting on the top of desserts I was certain one day I would try my hand at creating the candied blossoms. Well here’s a recipe on how to do it…and it sounds quite simple. Let us know if you give it a try!]  

Candied Violas
An old-fashioned way to decorate cakes, custards and puddings.

1 c. fresh viola flowers, gently rinsed and patted dry
1 egg white, at room temperature
¼ c. superfine sugar

Beat egg white until frothy. With a small, clean art or pastry brush, coat all sides of each flower’s petals with beaten egg white gently and completely. Sprinkle flowers carefully and completely with sugar. Place on a cake rack over a baking sheet and let dry thoroughly in a cool dry place. Store in a covered airtight container until ready to use.



Photo: www.TheMessyBaker.com

A new favorite: Epimediums


They look dainty but Epimediums are sturdy and great workhorses in the partial shade garden. I started adding them to my garden in the last three years, seduced by the interesting foliage, the unusual flower form and wide variety of bloom color. Certainly their common names—rowdy lamb herb, Randy Beef Grass, barrenwort, bishop's hat, fairy wings, and horny goat weed—don’t do much to sell their great charm with the possible exception of bishop’s hat and fairy wings. The wire-thin stems, smaller leaves, and flower structure contrasts beautifully with bold-leaved hostas and striking fern leaves. I find they also work well with another favorite of mine: Pulmonaria. But I read “Epimediums with a Twist” and it suggests combining this wonderful genus of plants with other less obvious garden partners.

There are hundreds of varieties to choose from. I added several, including the glorious Amber Queen, as I reworked garden beds in anticipation of having my garden open for the Inviting Vines VI Garden Tour. The May 25 tour is a fundraiser for the extensive Rogerson Clematis Collection. (I probably should be writing about the 11 new Clematis I recently added to my garden, but that can wait until they start to bloom…although Clematis Guernsey Cream, a Clematis montana variety and others are starting to do their thing, including Clematis ‘Josephine’, which is just about ready to burst into bloom!)

If you haven’t succumbed yet to the charms of Epimediums and you have shade in your garden, give them a warm welcome. You’ll find fascinating varieties at specialty nurseries and I’m seeing more and more of them at local garden centers.
 

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Camas Blooms

Courtesy of GardenTime.TV
We love our native plants and when they have a history tied to their appearance it is even better. One of those plants is the native Camas [Camassia quamash]. It’s a plant that has been used by the native population since before the Lewis and Clark expedition. This spring blooming bulb is in full swing right now and can be found in marshy meadows around the area. [There is] a great field of them growing wild at Cammasia Natural Area in West Linn.

[Camas] was one of the major foods of the Native American people that lived in the Northwest. The bulb was harvested in the spring and provided a source of carbohydrates to the tribes…They harvested only the blue flowering camas, because the white flowering kind could make you sick. They were so happy with the return of the camas that it is one of the celebrated foods of the spring ‘first foods’ ceremony. 

This plant is also one that looks as good as it tastes. Local gardeners will find it easy to grow.  It doesn’t mind the moist soils of the spring, but prefers the drier soils of the summer. [Editor’s note: They like their feet wet in winter and early spring, but need to dry out after flowering,] You can find it at a lot of the local garden centers, but [GardenTime TV] found a large selection at Bosky Dell Natives.

[Editor’s notes: Wanting more native plants in my yard and having squishy wet soil in the spring, I thought planting the bulbs in the outer edges of my grass would be the perfect place for a swath of the lovely blue Camus. The conditions suited the plant, but the timing of its growth and bloom wasn’t too good. Camus grows just as the grass starts going crazy and needs mowing. I either couldn’t mow and my grass went way out of control—to the point I had to cut the grass by hand—or I mowed and didn’t get to see the bulbs bloom. I may try agai, but this time I will place the bulbs outside the boundaries of the grass!  Portland Nursery has some good information about Cammasia quamash, Common Camas, and Cammasia leichtlinii, known as Great Camus on their website.



Monday, April 29, 2013

Plants for Pollinators

Excerpt from an article of the same title by Gail Langellotto, Ph.D., assistant professor of horticulture, OSU, in the May issue of Digger, a monthly nursery industry publication published by the Oregon Association of Nurseries. Edited for brevity.

 
[Editor’s note: Planning a shade garden comes much more easily to me than trying to pull together a cohesive sunny garden. This isn’t too surprising because I probably have full sun in only 10% of my garden. While visiting a local garden center I wanted to buy a few sun perennials, but I was overwhelmed at the choices. I opted for a few blooming sages. After reading this article, I’ll add other flowering perennials in the coming months with an emphasis on staggered bloom times. Bottomline? Add/have a wide array of blooming plants to help the pollinators. I hope you find the article informative. I certain did.] 

Pollinators have immense value to agricultural food production, plant reproduction and ecosystem health. Pollinators are directly or indirectly involved in the agricultural production of roughly 30 percent of the food and drink we consume. Thus, many are greatly concerned about reports that pollinators are in decline.

Common pollinators include bees, wasps, ants, flies, butterflies, moths, beetles, birds and bats.

Research suggests that gardeners can play an important role in supporting pollinators. For example, the abundance of flowering plants was shown to be one of the strongest predictors of bee and butterfly diversity in New York City community gardens (Matteson and Longellotto, 2010). Similarly, the number of shrubs in a garden was found to be the strongest predictor of butterfly diversity in Paris (Shwartz et al., 2013).

In the not too distant past, it was thought that most, if not all plants and their pollinators had co-evolved, so that particular plants attracted specific pollinators, and that specific pollinators would only visit particular plants. This view of plant-pollinator relationships has led many to recommend that pollinator gardens rely on native plants. However, ecologists now recognize that most plant-pollinator relationships are much more promiscuous than was previously thought. In fact, bees and butterflies have been found to heavily utilize exotic ornamental plants in urban gardens, even when native plants are present (Frankie et al., 2009; Matteson and Langellotto, 2011).

Thus, it is not as simple as saying “Choose native plants when building a pollinator garden.” Instead, the savvy landscaper should adopt a few simple rules when selecting plants to feature in a pollinator garden:

1. Plant lots of flowering plants. Using a wide variety of floral colors and shapes in your garden will attract more pollinators. Group like flowers together. They’re more likely to catch the attention of passing pollinators.
2. Choose plants that bloom from early spring through late fall. Especially in early spring, pollinators that are active may have a hard time finding food. Thus, spring-blooming plants can have a large impact in attracting and conserving pollinators. Of course, summer and fall-blooming plants provide resources for pollinators that arrive later in the season.
3. Provide host plants for butterflies and moths. Butterflies and moths usually prefer to feed on nectar, but their young need to feed on plant leaves. Native woody ornamentals are great host plants for many species. Worldwide, more than 500 species of butterflies and moths feed on various oak species; and Vacciniums host nearly 300 species. A little over 200 butterflies and moths develop on various elms with the genus Ulmus.
4. Use native plants, but don’t discount the value of attractive exotics. Native plants are often recommended as a means to attract and/or conserve wildlife in urban areas, in large part, because they are fantastic host plants for the larvae of a variety of butterflies and moths. However, research suggests (Matteson and Langellotto, 2011) that exotic garden plants (particularly annuals and smaller perennials) are used by, and important in maintaining the diversity of butterfly and bee communities. In addition, [the research] found that additions of native plants need to be much more substantial than most sources recommend, if they are to significantly influence butterfly and bee diversity in gardens.

Based on her research, the author suspects that the conservation value of installing a few native plants (other than native trees) in the garden is often oversold, while the value of installing a few exotic plants that are highly attractive to bees and butterflies is often undersold.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Using Fire Resistant Plants

The week of May 5 is Wildfire Awareness Week. The Oregon Department of Forestry, Keep Oregon Green Association, Bureau of Land Management, and the Office of State Fire Marshal want you to be aware that plant selection can help reduce the risk of wildfire damage to your home, particularly if you live in or adjacent to a forest or rangeland. Fire resistance is not something I generally think about when selecting plants for my urban garden. I did, however, live in Santa Barbara, Calif., as a youth and saw the devastation wildfires can wreck to homes and people’s lives.

The good news is that most plants are fire-resistant. By definition, fire-resistant plants are those that do not readily ignite from a flame or other ignition sources. Fire resistant plants can be damaged or even killed by fire; however, their foliage and stems do not significantly contribute to the fuel and, therefore, the fire’s intensity. It makes sense to keep plants with resin-like sap and those that build potential fire fuel with dried needles or debris away from a home’s foundation. Lawns are useful; they can create effective fuel breaks by blocking intense heat. To learn more, click here for the booklet “Fire Resistant Plants for Home Landscapes – Selecting plants that may reduce your risk from wildfire.“ For more information on fire resistant landscapes visit Keep Oregon Green.

Shade(ier) Tolerant Food Crops

I have a lot of shade and part-shade conditions in my garden, but I also want to grow food crops to the fullest extent possible. I just added raised beds in an area that offers part-shade conditions: morning shade and afternoon sun. I thought if I grew in a shadier location the leafy vegetables that typically bolt in a warmer spot, I could extend the growing season. The raised beds—in this case painted stock tanks—are also an opportunity to use an area of the garden that is plagued by roots from a very old, very tall plum tree that no longer bears fruit.

Arugula, various lettuce varieties, chard, bush peas, endive, and carrot seeds have been planted, as well as four varieties of strawberries. Now it’s time to keep my fingers crossed and wait to see how successful my efforts will be. In a nearby bed, I will be planting fruit-bearing currents (one red, one black) and a tea plant (Camellia sinensis). I’ll also move my above ground potato “planters” to the area with more shade in an effort to make way for a few more sun-loving fruiting plants. The woodland-like areas around the garden are planted with evergreen huckleberries.

Mother Earth News offers this advice: When considering which crops to grow in shady areas, think of them in terms of leaves and roots. Crops we grow for their leaves (kale, lettuce, spinach) and those we grow for their roots (beets, carrots, turnips) will do fairly well in partially shady conditions.

According to The Gardening Channel, there are even more varieties I should be able to grow in the shadier location, including some herbs such as mint, chervil, coriander or parsley. Here’s their list of crops that will produce with three to six hours per day of sun, or fairly constant dappled shade:

  1. Salad Greens, such as leaf lettuce, arugula, endive, and cress.
  2. Broccoli
  3. Cauliflower
  4. Peas
  5. Beets
  6. Brussels Sprouts
  7. Radishes
  8. Swiss Chard
  9. Leafy Greens, such as collards, mustard greens, spinach, and kale
  10. Beans
GrowVeg.com offers some good tips and advice to improve the quality of partial shade crops:
  • Whenever possible, work with seedlings grown in bright light. The worst time for a veggie to be deprived of light is during its juvenile period. If you have only a little full sun, use it for a cold frame or nursery bed where you can grow leafy greens to transplant size. [Editor’s note: I planted seeds; perhaps for fall crops I’ll see if transplants make a difference.]
  • Shade tolerant vegetables cannot be crowded. Wide spacing promotes good air circulation and light penetration, which in turn reduces problems with diseases.
  • Anticipate that slugs and snails will be a problem, because they are naturally attracted to moist shade. Plan to trap them often (even when plants are not present) using beer-baited traps. To reduce mollusk habitat, limit mulching until the weather becomes warm and dry in summer. [Editor’s note: I have gravel around the raised beds so I’m hoping slugs won’t be too much of a problem.]
  • You can also use human ingenuity to maximize available light. Paint the sides of nearby buildings white, or erect white panels in summer to reflect light back onto plants. Metallic surfaces also can be used, for example small boards wrapped in aluminum foil, placed between plants or on nearby walls. Inexpensive mirror tiles mounted on boards can have similar light-boosting effects.
Have you attempted to grow food crops in less than full sun locations? Tell us what worked for you.